If, like me your are frustrated by the overall sameness of most Mexican restaurants, then welcome to “Lupita’s”, at 700 Main St. in Evanston. The menu alone would not lead you to expect things to be so different. Nor does the décor suggest anything other than the norm for typical Mexican dining.
But, from the moment a platter of antijitos is placed on your table, Lupita’s begins to show its style. Instead of ordinary corn taco chips, you will be brought deep fried pastry puffed chips with a light and delicate feel and flavor. Also, in the same bowl will be small taquitos, folded over tortillas stuffed with seasoned potatoes worked down to a pulp.
These are so good you might not even want to order an appetizer from the menu, but go ahead and do so anyway, for variety, if for no other reason. Certainly, you would not want to pass up the delicious empanadas. Or, order a combo platter that brings three different kinds of finger snacks.
Though you could choose a main course of chile rellenos, you can also order them individually as a side order. The stuffed peppers have had virtually all their bite cooked away and come filled with a mildly seasoned cheese or cheese and beef combination. Either way, these are the way stuffed peppers should be. Individual tacos, flautas and tostadas can also be ordered, just as they can in dinner size portions.
Several combination platters will give you a chance to mix and match tastes and textures, too. One thing that is evident about Lupita’s is that there is no confusing flautas with enchiladas or enchiladas with tostadas. Of course each has its own appearance, but they have their own textures, too.
Evening specials are particularly interesting. Recently sea scallops came in a mildly seasoned cucumber puree blanc with slivers of vegetables quick cooked to hold their texture. This is the kind of cooking that is far from routine Mexican restaurant fare. From among other selections, an order of fajitas, chicken or beef could use more in the way of flavor contrasts. But, one of a trio of steaks, in this case Bistec Tampiquena is right on the mark. Spanish rice and frijoles accompany some dinner platters, while delicious sliced zucchini in tomato sauce with a blanket of melted cheese comes with others.
Desserts include a house style bread pudding with chocolate sauce and two cheese cakes. Expect to spend about $25 a couple, plus tax and tip. Lupita’s at 700 Main St. in Evanston, has a K/Rating of 17.5/20.